Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Cambodia

Woah.

I wasn't prepared for the difference between Cambodia and Vietnam. I expected it might be like South Africa to Swaziland; some differences, but plenty of similarities.

I was dead wrong.

As soon as I crossed the border at midday on a Saturday, I was in a new world. Gone were the straw hats, the layered-up women, the letters of the Roman alphabet. I stared at long farm huts, houses high on stilts, massive grey oxen. Dark green hills loomed in the distance.

But the most startling difference? Smiles. The Cambodian bus driver joked and laughed as he helped us cross the border - the ministry of health official teased me, saying he'd detain me due to my high temperature (but then just stuck me in front of a fan until I was allowed into the country). Tuk tuk drivers beamed and bantered. Everyone seemed filled with joy and happiness.
Typical happy Cambodians!
After a week in Cambodia, I've found the people to be warm, kind, and open. Despite a horrifying genocidal history, Cambodians are full of laughter and love. It is a beautiful country with many treasures to offer and I had an incredible time exploring it - I wish I could have stayed longer! It was horribly difficult to drag myself back to Phu Quoc to continue research (a trip that took over two days due to delays). Here are a few highlights from my trip:

People. The amazing Aussie / Swiss crew that I met on the ill-fated double-breakdown bus from Kep to Phnom Penh. The people from all over the world with advice and recommendations along the way. The Dutch cohort that swept me up in their adventure. I talked myself hoarse after speaking so little for two months; my spirit was revived with hugs and friendship and love!
Sid, Simon, and Stephanie
Places. Visiting the sobering Killing Fields & National Museum in Phnom Penh (I'd pass on the King's Palace next time). Riding in tuk tuks every day. Running into a friend on the bamboo train in Battambang (craziest coincidence!). Watching a million bats stream out of a cave at dusk. Taking a boat across the Tonle Sap River from Battambang to Siem Reap. The awe-inspiring temples of Angkor. The clean, quiet, beautiful town of Kampot on the river. Freezing in monsoon rains biking through Bokor National Park.
Angor Wat
Food & Treats. Taking a traditional Kmer cooking class and learning how to cook spring rolls, chicken amok, and pumpkin gratin. Eating a duck fetus. Enjoying cheap, fresh smoothies. Trying new beers - "Gol mouy!" Bargaining at markets across the country for beautiful treasures. Getting massages every other day.

I always learn a little bit more about myself when I travel; the gains are immeasurable. I had a wonderful time and cherish the new friendships I made and experiences I had. I can’t wait to get back out there and see more! I couldn't help but notice the scowl of a Vietnamese woman as soon as I crossed the border ... I already miss Cambodian smiles!

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Losing My Mind Over Littering

As I've mentioned before, the litter here appalls me. It is everywhere – on the streets, piled next to the road, in trees and bushes, surrounding houses, but worst of all, it covers the beaches like a matted multicolour quilt. It forms a plastic maze across the ocean's surface, strangles corals, and litters the seafloor.

Let's be fair here - in Canada, littering was commonplace until the 1970's when fines were imposed (it is still an issue – consider the raging war on cigarette butts). I grew up being taught not to be a litterbug - I got so passionate about it that I made posters, and worse, threw rocks at people I saw littering (I did the same thing with smokers ... Perhaps the old English in me still craved a good stoning). In a developing country such as Vietnam, it is hardly fair for me to get frustrated by littering when many people can't access clean drinking water, don’t finish high school, or barely have roads. But it seems like complete laziness when there are waste management options, yet people still throw their garbage directly into the ocean. It stems from a mentality that everything is decomposable, which, until the heavenly arrival of plastics, it was.
Just your average multi-colour shoreline.
A few weeks ago, I participated in a series of Reef Check dives with the Marine Protected Area staff. I was horrified by the amount of garbage at some of the dive sites – how could we be evaluating the health of the coral but ignoring the waves of plastic that floated by?? I pacified myself by collecting garbage in a net bag I found attached to a hard coral.
Underwater trick-or-treating for garbage
After one particularly dull seagrass dive, I surfaced and joined the rest of the MPA team on shore after a mucky, slurpy, disgusting 400m walk through the shallows (the number one thing that gives me the heebie-jeebies is walking through soft, deep, murky, muddy lake or ocean bottom… I can’t stand it). Upon reaching shore, I dumped my heavy dive gear next to everyone else's and sat down to wait for our ride. Miraculously, an ice cream motorbike rode by (not joking, this is a thing, it even plays music) and all of these grown men eagerly purchased a treat. They unwrapped strawberry bars and chocolate cones, anticipation on their faces… then without a thought they dropped the wrappers on the ground. My face clearly conveyed my anger, disgust and frustration because my research assistant, Thanh, kicked his plastic to the side, slightly abashed.

How could these men, who are educated, who are aware of ocean issues, who devote their work to marine conservation, just drop this garbage on the ground directly next to the ocean?! I looked on angrily, but felt it would be too ridiculous and rude to pick up what they’d just dropped on the ground (or maybe I was just too exhausted … either way, I regret not giving them a piece of my mind).

I always pick up whatever garbage I find when I’m scuba diving (batteries, bags, you name it). But on land, the issue is so overwhelming that it feels pointless to pick anything up. I’ve been searching for NGOs or other groups devoted to the issue of littering in Vietnam (which I’m sure is a widespread issue throughout most developing countries) but I haven’t managed to find much yet.

Dealing with littering will just have to continue as a side-project to my seahorse work…