Cambodia

Woah.

I wasn't prepared for the difference between Cambodia and Vietnam. I expected it might be like South Africa to Swaziland; some differences, but plenty of similarities.

I was dead wrong.

As soon as I crossed the border at midday on a Saturday, I was in a new world. Gone were the straw hats, the layered-up women, the letters of the Roman alphabet. I stared at long farm huts, houses high on stilts, massive grey oxen. Dark green hills loomed in the distance.

But the most startling difference? Smiles. The Cambodian bus driver joked and laughed as he helped us cross the border - the ministry of health official teased me, saying he'd detain me due to my high temperature (but then just stuck me in front of a fan until I was allowed into the country). Tuk tuk drivers beamed and bantered. Everyone seemed filled with joy and happiness.

Typical happy Cambodians!

After a week in Cambodia, I've found the people to be warm, kind, and open. Despite a horrifying genocidal history, Cambodians are full of laughter and love. It is a beautiful country with many treasures to offer and I had an incredible time exploring it - I wish I could have stayed longer! It was horribly difficult to drag myself back to Phu Quoc to continue research (a trip that took over two days due to delays). Here are a few highlights from my trip:

People. The amazing Aussie / Swiss crew that I met on the ill-fated double-breakdown bus from Kep to Phnom Penh. The people from all over the world with advice and recommendations along the way. The Dutch cohort that swept me up in their adventure. I talked myself hoarse after speaking so little for two months; my spirit was revived with hugs and friendship and love!

Sid, Simon, and Stephanie

Places. Visiting the sobering Killing Fields & National Museum in Phnom Penh (I'd pass on the King's Palace next time). Riding in tuk tuks every day. Running into a friend on the bamboo train in Battambang (craziest coincidence!). Watching a million bats stream out of a cave at dusk. Taking a boat across the Tonle Sap River from Battambang to Siem Reap. The awe-inspiring temples of Angkor. The clean, quiet, beautiful town of Kampot on the river. Freezing in monsoon rains biking through Bokor National Park.

Angor Wat

Food & Treats. Taking a traditional Kmer cooking class and learning how to cook spring rolls, chicken amok, and pumpkin gratin. Eating a duck fetus. Enjoying cheap, fresh smoothies. Trying new beers - "Gol mouy!" Bargaining at markets across the country for beautiful treasures. Getting massages every other day.

I always learn a little bit more about myself when I travel; the gains are immeasurable. I had a wonderful time and cherish the new friendships I made and experiences I had. I can’t wait to get back out there and see more! I couldn't help but notice the scowl of a Vietnamese woman as soon as I crossed the border ... I already miss Cambodian smiles!