Changing Perspectives

When I left Phu Quoc, it was with a bit of nostalgia, but mostly an utter sense of relief. I flew from Phu Quoc to Hanoi and took some time off to enjoy Vietnam.

My first stop was Sapa, a town in northern Vietnam where tourism is booming. Set amongst green mountains layered with rice paddies, the area is stunning. Sapa itself is an overrun, unregulated tourist town, but provides the start point for epic adventures. Northern Vietnam is home to 26 ethnic tribes, who are considered second-class citizens by the government. Politics aside, these people have incredible histories, culture and lifestyles, and experiencing their way of life is a unique and rewarding experience.

I met up with my beloved Swiss friends Stephanie and Simon (who I met in Cambodia) and we did a two-day trek and homestay with Chan, who is of the Black H'mong tribe. Chan led us over mountains in the fog and rain to her home village, Tavan, where we spent the night with her family. She speaks fantastic English and was able to teach us all about her tribe, and other similar tribes. We were fascinated by the clothes worn by the H'mong, which are made from hemp (which they grow) and dyed with indigo (which they also grow), then decorated with elaborate embroidery. The entire process can take a year to complete.

Trekking past awe-inspiring views.

Trying on local clothing at the market.

On our third day in Sapa, we rented motorbikes and cruised along the highest road in Vietnam and through one of the most incredible mountain passes I've ever seen. We spent the afternoon with Lao Cai people, whose language, culture, and dress is completely different to the H'mong.

Stunning views at Heaven's Gate.

Chatting with Lao Cai in a house built for six families.

I adored Sapa. I wish I'd had more time to stay ... But I think I'll be back in the future!

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TOURISTS. TOURISTS. TOURISTS.

That is the best way to describe Halong Bay. Yes - it is incredibly beautiful and geographically unique. But it's not worth being put on a tourism conveyer belt with 15,000 other people. The only part that was worthwhile was when we went kayaking in a remote area with less people (but still about five boats and forty people).

My friend Ali and I enjoying a tandem kayak away from the hustle and bustle.

Typical Halong Bay view: monstrous limestone karsts, and ugly tour boats.

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I returned to the Research Institute of Marine Fisheries in Haiphong for my final week. When I first arrived in Haiphong at the beginning of April, the madness of motorbike traffic terrified me. Now, I'm able to wake up at 6am and walk blurry eyed into a constant stream of honking, chugging motorbikes like it's nothing. I can hop on the back of a friend's bike and not blink an eye as we drive head-on into oncoming traffic.

Morning motorbike selfie

It's amazing how much my perspective has changed. My first impression of Haiphong was a dirty dull city, and now my eyes seek out well-built mansions, swanky cars, well-dressed people. The city seems cleaner, wealthier, more beautiful compared to the poor and decrepit areas I've been in.

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I managed to squeeze in one last adventure by taking a ferry from Haiphong to Cat Ba Island. It's very close to Halong Bay and experiences quite a bit of tourism, but I was there for one reason only: rock climbing.

I brought my gear with me to Vietnam in the hopes that I'd have some climbing opportunities - but the sport is so new here that I was left staring longingly at beautiful rock faces all summer, while my shoes and harness gathered dust. Cat Ba Island is one of the few places where routes have been bolted, and a company regularly takes people out climbing and even deep water soloing (where you climb straight out of the water, unharnessed, and jump back in the ocean when you finish the climb - or can't go any further). Unfortunately the tides weren't right for DWS, but I spent a day on an interesting limestone wall with five other climbers (from the US, the UK, and Switzerland). I was stoked that I finally got to put my gear to use!

Struggling my way up a 10.b after 6 months sans climbing.