Saying Goodbye to My Paradise-Prison

After three and a half months, I am finally leaving Phu Quoc Island – and I’m so relieved. I hope to visit someday, but I’m definitely ready to depart. It was wonderful in many ways, but it was also a very difficult experience for me.

I spent an immense amount of time alone (or what felt like alone, since no one could understand me). I had some incredibly unique experiences with Vietnamese families in remote places – but rarely did I really feel genuine warmth or love. Several awkward goodbyes with these families made that even clearer.


Yes – seahorses are interesting and fascinating, but I’m looking forward to a break from them. Especially seeing them plunked into rice wine, still alive and squirming. Week after week I have looked at dead seahorses caught by boats, and I am tired of asking them where they fished today, for how long, and at what depth. And they are tired of answering me.

You know what I really wish I could do? Rally a group of people to clean up this island. I want to teach people to dispose of garbage appropriately, and not treat the ocean as their trash can. I honestly don’t think seahorse conservation is possible when everyone poops straight into the ocean and throws all of their plastic in there too.

Enough with the moping – there are so many positive things to look back on. It was incredible to watch Phu Quoc Island change over the course of four months. I saw buildings demolished and reborn; asphalt was pressed upon red dirt to form a slowly expanding maze of roads; I saw forests burn and pepper farms rise from the ashes; I saw monthly tides dramatically alter beaches and shorelines; I saw monstrous resorts constructed along the coast. I tried new and interesting foods; I experienced raw Vietnamese life. I saw two men with three nipples, and a guy with two thumbs. I caught cleaning ladies going through all my stuff and taking pictures wearing my things, and I laughed about it. So much has happened in the last three and a half months – but it’s relieving to know it’s behind me.

After this long, I’ve got some tips for anyone travelling to Phu Quoc – so here are a few recommendations for the Ultimate Phu Quoc Vacation:

• Rent a motorbike and zip all over the island – it’s the best way to see it (and you can check out the beautiful and vibrant fishing communities - my favourite is Ganh Dau)
• Catch a sunset on long beach – bring your own beers and head further south than the tourist resorts so you can enjoy a private show!
• Allow yourself one dinner at the Night Market (it’s expensive, but has great people watching)
• Try all of the local food you can – my favourites are Bun Cha Gio (spring rolls and vermicelli noodles), Ban Mi Op La (baguette with egg, cucumber, carrot, and cilantro), Com Ca (rice and fish) and Pho of course! Don’t be hesitant when it comes to seafood.
• If you’re craving “western” food, the best pizza is at Pepper’s, and Winston’s makes a wicked burger
• Go snorkeling / scuba diving in the An Thoi islands – and try to get to one of the many private beaches on these tiny islands
• Enjoy a fresh coconut for 10,000 VND (50 cents)
• Visit the pagoda on the south of the island – the entrance is not well marked but it’s the most peaceful place on the island
• Head to KikiCoconut Beach on the east side of the island and get them to guide you through the jungle up the mountain (start early if you want to reach the top!)
• If you visit the waterfall, hike up past the main falls and enjoy the fresh water to yourself, away from the busloads of tourists
• The best bar on the island is Rory’s – usually has a good crowd of people, and the owners (Rory and Eun) are super friendly 
• If a local offers you rice wine, DRINK IT!